A Week's Worth of Tomatoes

It’s that glorious season when every time I go out to check the garden, I see another tomato ripening on the vine. I’ve had a few bad years of tomatoes at Poppy Corners, and have had to rely on my school garden supply; this year I’ve gotten lucky. Somehow I’ve found the right place (morning and late afternoon sun, midday shade) with the right watering plan (every other day, deeply), with the correct amount of pruning (none!), and with the right method of staking (Florida weave, sort of) - or at least ‘correct’ and ‘right’ for this particular summer in this particular climate. I may do the exact same thing again next year and get entirely different results - that’s the way things are going, my friends. I’ll never take a good harvest for granted again.

Anyway, it’s been glorious to have our fill of tomato dishes. I love summer cooking - lots of grilling, and picking of basil, and shucking of corn. I ask you, what else does one need for a delicious meal?

Here are some recipes that have been in heavy rotation here.

1. Summer Steak with Corn and Tomatoes: This one comes from the always-reliable Deb at Smitten Kitchen. This is an easy, delicious meal, and if you double it, you’ll have great leftovers for lunch the next day. You don’t have to use cherry tomatoes; slicing work just as well. And any ‘flat’ steak will do - skirt, flank, flap, flat iron. I also use another ear of corn because why not?

2. Chickpea Tagine with Tomato Jam (and fresh-caught halibut!): Adam is spending the summer with us as he works his way through job interviews. He’s been lucky enough to go out on a friend’s boat several times, fishing in the Pacific. He’s caught rockfish and halibut. He grilled the halibut to go with this tagine and it was amazing. We just piled the fish with the chickpeas and ate it all at once. Alexandra at Alexandra Cooks is a wonderful recipe-writer and has a lot of fabulous vegetarian recipes. I made my own ras-el-hanout and used some as seasoning on the fish, too. You could also have this with any protein of your choice although I think pork chops would be delicious with this.

3. Garlic Lime Steak and Tomato Salad: Another Smitten Kitchen recipe, this uses up a lot of ingredients we have in the garden right now (beans, cucumbers, cilantro, basil, jalapenos) and has a real Vietnamese flavor. I usually double the dressing/marinade and up the fish sauce a little bit.

4. Pasta Pomodoro with Grilled Chicken: You don’t need a recipe for this. Just throw together plenty of chopped tomatoes, garlic, basil, salt, and olive oil on a sheet pan and roast in a 425 degree oven for 20 minutes or so. Marinate some chicken in lemon juice, sherry, garlic, and salt, then grill it. Cook some thin noodles. Wham! You’ve got pasta pomodoro. Any leftover sauce can be frozen and used later as a topping for pretty much anything!

5. Polenta-baked Eggs with Corn, Tomato, and Fontina: This is another Smitten Kitchen recipe that I got from one of Deb’s cookbooks. It’s especially great this time of year because eggs are also usually quite plentiful from our backyard chickens. Cook 1/2 cup polenta following directions on the package (I like Bob’s Red Mill or Anson Mills). When the polenta is nearly finished cooking, add 1/2 cup of corn kernels (fresh or thawed frozen). Stir and cook for a few more minutes. Add 1/2 cup grated fontina, and season well with salt and pepper. Then add 2 tablespoons of creme fraiche or sour cream. Stir until everything is creamy. Coat a cast iron skillet with butter, and transfer over the polenta mixture. Stir in a chopped tomato (or two) or some pureed tomato sauce. Smooth the surface, and make four indentations. Crack an egg into each one. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and with more grated fontina. Bake in a 400 degree oven until the whites are set. You might have to broil it for a few minutes to finish it up. It’s a trick to get the whites set but the yolks still runny, but the end result is delicious with a good crusty baguette.

6. One-pan Farro with Tomatoes (and Tom’s homemade Italian sausage!): Tom made a huge amount of Italian sausage this past spring, and it’s been fun to add it to all kinds of dishes. I love the chewy nuttiness of farro (I also like Bob’s Red Mill farro), and it goes really well with meaty things. Again, you can use any kind of tomato here.

7. Savory Tomato Galette with Tomato, Corn, Caramelized Onions, and Gruyere: Tom doesn’t love this because he has trouble with any soggy bottom pastry, but I don’t find this recipe all that soggy (the corn and cheese at the bottom help a lot) and frankly I wouldn’t mind if it was. Have I mentioned that Alexandra has my favorite focaccia recipe of all time? It’s worth checking that out, too. Both Adam and Rin make it regularly for sandwiches. Alexandra’s good at bread, in general, and has written both a bread cookbook (‘Bread, Toast, Crumbs’) and a new pizza cookbook.

Happy Cooking!

Food Miles: A Thought Exercise

On Sunday, Tom baked apple pie to take to a family dinner. The apples came from one of our trees as well as a friend’s tree, so we had two different apple varieties. The pie was a hit, of course, and the best thing was that Tom baked TWO, so we have pie for dessert this whole week, hooray!

Last night, before pie (B.P.), we ate a dinner of pasta with yet another batch of homemade pomodoro sauce (the tomatoes just keep coming from the school garden). We were patting ourselves on the back because it felt like a real ‘farm to table’ dinner; the tomatoes, basil, garlic, and apples were all from our garden or nearby gardens. We felt sustainable and smug.

But then we dug deeper, and it became clear that we really had no business being smug. Let’s go through all of the ingredients, one by one, and see how our food miles stack up for this meal of pasta pomodoro and apple pie with vanilla ice cream. You may think I’ve been overly generous with the ‘grades,’ or overly harsh. Comments will be read with interest.

• All produce (tomatoes, basil, garlic, apples): From our property or from within 10 miles, all from gardens we know and love well, and that are organic and regenerative. Grade: A

• Olive oil: We get olive oil from a local CSA called Fat Gold. If we need extra before our next shipment, we buy 100% Californian olive oil. Grade: A-

• Pasta: DeCecco, imported from Italy through a New York company. Grade: F

• Parmesan Cheese: made by an organic CA dairy using raw milk. Grade: A-

• Salt: We buy Redmond salt in bulk from Utah. Grade: C

• All-Purpose Flour: King Arthur, processed in either Vermont or Washington with wheat from the middle of the country. Good company with all the right ideas on their website (committed to Environmental Stewardship, Food Justice, Community, Small Farmers) but still, nowhere near CA, and probably conventionally grown. Grade: D

• Butter: made by an organic CA dairy. Grade: A-

• Crisco: I mean, do we even have to deliberate? Who cares about the miles? It’s basically motor oil. Grade: F

• Pie Spices: Cinnamon, nutmeg, clove, allspice. Imported by Morton and Bassett of CA from all points around the globe. At least they are committed to Non-GMO. Grade: F

• Sugar: C&H, which stands for California and Hawaiian. The sugar is processed right down the road from us in Crockett, CA. It’s made from cane rather than beets, which is a point of pride for the company, but the cane no longer comes from Hawaii; it comes from Mexico, Vietnam, Brazil, or Australia. Grade: D

• Vanilla Ice Cream: made by an organic CA dairy with local cream, but with imported vanilla. Grade: C

So the food miles for our prideful local farm to table dinner are actually quite astronomical. This is unfortunate. We could do better; for instance, we could get our flour from a local farm which grows and grinds it themselves. We could make our own pasta from that flour. We could also support a local company called Community Grains that is committed to making flour and flour products from local, whole grain wheat. (We’ve done this in the past, I’m not sure why we stopped.) Tom likes to use half butter and half Crisco in his pie crust, and we could go to 100% butter. Instead of sugar, we could use our own honey. The only two things that I don’t think we can improve are the pie spices and the vanilla. But still, taking these steps would reduce our food miles significantly.

What if we add health in to the equation? It’s a little trickier, because different people have different ideas about what’s healthy. For us, this is a rather indulgent meal. And let’s be clear: I’m not talking about the pie. There’s no question that pie is indulgent, but for us, dessert is a non-negotiable. We feel happier when we include dessert in our lives. We believe in homemade dessert if at all possible, and luckily, our family has no shortage of excellent bakers. Many of our desserts involve fruit or nuts. We sacrifice in other ways so that we can have dessert without worry; for instance, 90% of the time, Tom and I eat only once per day, so we don’t have to concern ourselves overmuch about sweets, as long as they’re not the only thing we’re eating.

No, when I say indulgent, I mean the dinner itself. I think we can all agree that the fruits and veg are good for us, but we would normally eat a good deal more protein, from either lean meats, eggs, fish, or beans, and good deal less of the processed carbs. We tend to center our meals around protein and veg, with maybe some whole-grain thrown in. This meal was a bit of an outlier for us.

However, it did feel very summery and as we are now well into fall, it’s nice to enjoy summer meals while we can, and we ate the hell out of it.

This was an interesting thought exercise for us, and I think we learned a lot about how lax we’ve gotten on the local eating front. I could make excuses for it (we’re very busy, the kids are out of the house so we’re eating differently, we’ve started to cut corners in other ways since so much of our produce comes from either our own garden or my school garden), but all of those are just that - excuses. I am newly recommitted to spending our food dollars locally as much as possible. After all, this is one of the best ways to ‘vote’ for the kind of food systems we want - by putting our dollars into the food systems we aspire to have - which are rich in local farms, local grocers, local providers, and local businesses. We need to do better.

Making Grape Juice

In my school garden, we have an extremely vigorous grape vine. It is practically covering the fence from one side of the property to the other; it’s beautiful in three seasons, producing nice flowers in spring, prolific fruit and green leaves in summer, and flaming red leaves in fall. My guess is that this variety is ‘Roger’s Red,’ which is a hybrid of our native California grape. The fruit is tasty, although quite seedy.

This year, the grape grew to gigantic proportions, produced an incredible amount of fruit, and has made the wildlife around the Environmental Center very happy (we have a turkey family nibbling the fruit each day, and the human wildlife is also happy taking home bunches of fruit after class). My co-worker decided that we needed to harvest as much fruit as possible and give the vine a good pruning, which it likely hasn’t had in 30 years. So, our student gardener has taken on that project, and the other day harvested two enormous buckets of grapes.

I decided to bring the grapes home and see if I could make some decent juice from them. I didn’t have high hopes for this project because the grapes are really small, the size of blueberries (small ones, not those giant inflated ones you find in big supermarkets), and they are nearly all seed. I was sure they wouldn’t yield much juice.

I looked up how to make grape juice in my trusty Ball Blue Book, and that advised washing the grapes, then crushing them, then heating the juice on the stove. This seemed backward to me. (Not the washing part; of course that should come first.) I thought about how to crush them; I had no interest in stomping them with my feet. I decided I would take the grapes off the stems, then heat them gently in my big Dutch oven on the stovetop, adding a little bit of sugar (no need to measure because I’m not water-bath or pressure canning this juice) and waiting until it dissolved and the grapes were nice and warm. Then I would put them through my food mill to remove the skins and seeds.

Well, taking the grapes off the stems took an hour in itself, and I only did a about a quarter of the grapes in the buckets before I decided I’d had enough of that. Heating them was interesting because they immediately started to release juice. Putting them through the mill was straightforward, though it took a bit of muscle because of those large seeds. The primary problem was the MESS. Purple juice everywhere! (I was glad I thought ahead and put on some old clothes.) Purple pulp everywhere!

But the smell, oh my heavens, the smell. I haven’t had grape juice since I was a child, and I found myself wondering why. Probably because the stuff in the store is too sweet and barely juice at all. But this! This smelled like the best fruit orchard in the world, rich and deep and sweet, and the color of the juice! It’s the most gorgeous deep dark red, like a jewel.

Tom and I had a little at dinnertime, and whoa - it is really amazing. Intense, aromatic, delicious, pungent, sweet - you can taste the antioxidants and vitamins! You don’t need more than a a quarter cup - it’s super concentrated!

This quart of juice came from probably only 1-2 pounds of grapes, yielding far more juice than I expected from these small fruits. I have a lot left to process, and am trying to convince myself to make jelly. When’s the last time you had grape jelly? When’s the last time you had HOMEMADE grape jelly??? (I don’t think I ever have.) I mean, it’s got to be delicious, right?

But the clean up…. I’m not sure I can bring myself to go through this process again. The pulp and seeds were easily disposed of (I took it to the chickens, who were very interested), but I had to be very careful not to accidentally put any of those seeds down the garbage disposal (they are the size of popcorn kernels!). I ended up rinsing all my equipment outside with the garden hose before bringing it back inside to wash properly. My counters were a mess, my sink looked like something had died, and my hands were completely stained.

But this stuff is so darn tasty, I might have to just go for it. The time, effort, and mess are the trade-off for an unexpected homemade treat from a successful garden crop.

A favorite spring recipe

Is your herb garden bursting its confines, like mine? Fresh oregano, marjoram, rosemary, thyme, sage, and chives are at their springtime best right now. It’s a wonderful time to cut giant swathes of the stuff, tie with twine, and hang for drying.

It’s also a fine time for cooking with the soft fresh herbs. You can make pesto out of practically anything, or omit the nuts and garlic and make a simple an herb-oil puree to pour over any vegetable or meat. Make compound butters (we especially like garlic and thyme butter on grilled steak) and freeze for later use. Bake a focaccia topped with fresh herbs, or make mint ice tea/lemon verbena tisane. Now is the time to be profligate with herbs, while they are still soft and green, before they become woody and concentrated later on in the summer (when you’ll be inundated with basil, cilantro, and dill anyway).

One of our favorite things to do with young herbs is chop up a selection (today I used oregano, rosemary, chive, and thyme) in the food processor, with about a cup of cornmeal, a liberal amount of salt, and olive oil. This makes a paste that we often spread on pork tenderloin. After baked (in a 425 oven until cooked through), the herbed cornmeal makes a nice crust which adds so much texture and flavor to the not-so-exciting tenderloins. This would also be delicious on a firm white fish like cod, or even on tofu, if you’re a vegetarian.

I’d love to know how you like to use fresh herbs from your garden. Feel free to share a recipe in the comments!

A Childhood Favorite

When we moved to this property 18 years ago, we were delighted to inherit a few fruit trees located on the north side of the garden. Close to the fence line were an apple and peach, both gnarled and wonky in form, with old, disease-spotted trunks, and riotous overgrown greenery tufting absurdly out the tops. In another corner was a bushy quince, something neither of us had any experience with (and still don’t use to full advantage). The peach succumbed to disease several years ago; I replaced it with a mulberry that has yet to fruit. The quince, still vigorously bushy despite repeated attempts to contain it, mostly acts as a shady haven for the chickens in summertime. But the apple - well, I’ve worked hard to keep the apple producing. On low fruit years, I calendar a hard pruning for winter, and that always rewards me with a large summer harvest. On bushy years, I summer-prune it to manage its size. And as our garden has filled up with coops and raised beds, I’ve also halfway espaliered it to keep it flatter against the fence, and it doesn’t seem to mind that in the least. It just keeps on truckin’.

We don’t know what variety this tree is, but it ripens in July which is early for apples. The fruits are small and green, with a russet tint where the sun hits the skin, and they have very delicate flesh. They tend to be on the tart side, so it’s likely a variety meant for cooking rather than eating in-hand, but we eat them that way, too. The trunk and some of the larger branches have spots of canker, but I can’t bear to give up on it yet, not while it’s still producing so well.

Today, I was wandering around the garden trying to figure out what to have as a side to our steak and potato dinner. Unfortunately, I have covid, so I’m trying to stay out of the grocery store, and I am also taking a break from my school garden for a couple of days so I don’t accidentally infect anyone (thankfully some members of the Sustainability Club are taking care of the watering for me while I’m recuperating). This means I don’t have access to the produce there, and there’s so much more produce in the school garden (which has surprised me - I’ll be writing a post about that soon) than in the home garden. I don’t have any tomatoes or cucumbers yet at Poppy Corners; the only available peppers are spicy; I lagged in my harvesting of green beans and they all got giant and flaccid. After stripping those off and putting them in the compost (hopefully I’ll get another flush of beans soon), I was basically left with herbs and apples.

To complicate matters, I’ve been thinking a lot about a podcast I listened to recently in which a gut-health doctor/expert explained what our microbiomes prefer to eat. It turns out that the ideal diet for those little guys is plant food (I mean, did we really need someone to tell us that?), and a great variety of plant food at that - apparently they prefer 30 different plant foods per week. Simply put, the more diverse your diet is, the more diverse your microbiome is. Again, not terribly surprising, but 30 different plant foods can sound a little daunting, so I’ve been on a quest to determine if the Boegel diet meets that preference. Turns out, we’re doing quite well (the doctor said that nuts, seeds, and herbs also count, which helps), but it does take a little extra work, especially considering that I have a little… um… tomato addiction, and think eating them every day in season is quite reasonable.

Anyway, back to our dinner dilemma. I snipped some fresh thyme and chives; thyme and garlic could be mixed into softened butter, which would be an excellent addition to both our meat and potatoes, and the chives could be sprinkled over everything. As for the apples, I went down a rabbit’s hole trying to figure out how I could fry apples and onions to make a savory side dish (does anyone do this? If so, please share your recipe), but eventually decided to make that old childhood staple, applesauce.

I have good memories of my mother making applesauce every year in my youth. Actually, she still makes it every year. Growing up, we had a large vegetable garden, but not a lot of fruit. So we’d take several trips to a local farm called Butler’s Orchard to pick from their fields of berries and fruit trees. Then we’d eat some of it fresh, and mom would preserve the rest. She made jams with the berries, and sauce with the apples. She’d water-bath can these, often during the hottest days of the year, so we could eat them all year round. I must say I never appreciated that properly at the time! (Sorry, Mom, and thanks.)

My mother was an excellent steward of fresh produce and believed that nothing should be wasted. I remember her cooking the apples down in a little water, pits, cores, skin and all, to get as much nutrition out of the apples as possible. Then she’d put them through a food mill, add a teensy bit of sugar, and we’d have fresh applesauce sprinkled with cinnamon for supper before she canned the rest.

Reading this, it would be reasonable to assume that I too have been doing the same every year - I mean, how delicious! But I must confess that I have not been good about making applesauce in my adult life. Honestly, I’d rather have apple pie, or apple crisp, something firmly in the dessert camp (I do have such a sweet tooth). But today, I decided that applesauce could be a decent nutrient-dense side dish, standing in for a salad in my covid-housebound state. Also, supremely easy. I figured I could wing it, but just for kicks, I went through my cookbooks.

Years ago, Tom and I spent a ‘stay and cook’ weekend at The Apple Farm in Philo, up near the Mendocino coast. It was a revelatory weekend; we learned so much about cooking using ingredients from the farm and garden, and came home with so many recipes that we use frequently, like sorrel soup and rhubarb clafoutis. The Apple Farm is also a very beautiful place and the little cabins extremely cosy and comfortable, and the meals were just so delicious (duck! ribolleta!) . We also got to meet Sally Schmitt, a bit of a hero in the world of California cuisine. Sally Schmitt was the original owner of The French Laundry before they sold it to Thomas Keller. Before Chez Panisse even existed, Sally was one of the un-sung pioneers of farm-to-table cooking.

In retirement, Sally and her husband bought The Apple Farm, and along with their daughter and son-in-law, operated a farmstand and cooking classes. At the time of our visit, Sally and her husband were quite elderly and largely out of the day-to-day operations, but we saw them at mealtimes, which was a thrill.

Sally’s cookbook was published earlier this year, just after her death in March. I immediately bought a copy. It’s full of fun stories about the early days of what would become ‘California cuisine,’ and great pictures of ‘70s clothes and hair, and of course, wonderful recipes.

Being owners of an apple farm, naturally there is a section in the cookbook for apples, so I consulted their applesauce recipe. It wasn’t at all how I remembered my mother making it. Sally used apple juice instead of water, a full cup of sugar (to 4 cups juice and 8-10 lbs apples), a knob of butter, a tablespoon of salt, and no cinnamon! Also, she peeled and cored the apples first!

Well. I was torn. I called my mother, just to check in and see if I remembered her method correctly. That was a fun conversation, leading mom to later go look in her own files and books to see where she learned to do it that way, only to come up empty-handed. A mystery! I decided to go ahead and try Sally’s recipe this time, for a change. However, I didn’t have any juice on hand, so I used water. And I added several tablespoons of lemon juice. And I omitted the salt. Ok, maybe I just basically made up my own recipe.

Gotta say, it’s delicious. Creamy and sweet, but also tart, and full of the memories of childhood.

What’s your favorite applesauce recipe?